Services

Cabinet painting

We paint kitchen and bathroom cabinets the one way we think is right: doors and drawer fronts off, every surface prepped and primed, and a cabinet coating sprayed on for a smooth, even finish.

Licensed RBS 66117. Insured.12-month warrantyFree color consult

Kitchen cabinets painted white with glass-front uppers, a tile backsplash and dark granite counters
Kitchen cabinets painted white

What cabinet painting covers

We paint kitchen cabinets, bathroom vanities, laundry room cabinets and built-in cabinetry. That means the doors, drawer fronts, face frames, exposed end panels and island panels. Glass-front doors, cabinet crown and light rail can be painted too, and the inside of the boxes if you want them done.

We use one coating on every cabinet job: Sherwin-Williams Gallery Series Waterborne Topcoat, sprayed. It’s a cabinet coating rated to the cabinet industry’s KCMA standard, and it’s spray-only. We don’t offer a cheaper cabinet option, because cabinets take more abuse than any other painted surface in the house.

Who it’s for

Cabinet painting fits people who like their kitchen layout and have solid cabinet boxes, but are tired of the color. Dated honey oak, cherry stain that makes the room dark, or builder-grade white that has yellowed. It’s also a common job for people getting a house ready to sell, since the kitchen is where buyers look hardest.

How we do it

  1. Count and check. We count every door, drawer front and panel, look at the current finish (painted, stained or factory), check for loose hinges or damage, and give you a price.
  2. Protect the kitchen. Counters, backsplash, appliances and floors get covered and masked off.
  3. Remove and label. Doors and drawer fronts come off. Every piece and its hinges get labeled so each one goes back exactly where it came from.
  4. Degrease. Kitchen cabinets carry years of cooking grease and hand oil, especially around handles. Paint will not stick to grease, so every surface gets cleaned with a degreaser first.
  5. Scuff and fill. Everything is scuff sanded so the primer has something to grab. Dings and gouges get filled. Oak gets grain filled here if you’ve asked for a smooth finish.
  6. Prime. A bonding primer goes on every surface. On stained cabinets this step is what keeps the paint from peeling later.
  7. Spray the finish. Doors, drawer fronts, face frames and panels get sprayed with Gallery Series Waterborne Topcoat.
  8. Let it cure. The finish needs time to dry and harden before anything gets handled or rehung. Rushing this step is how doors end up stuck together or marked up.
  9. Rehang and adjust. Doors and drawer fronts go back in their labeled spots, hinges get adjusted so the gaps are even, and we walk the kitchen with you.

Why we spray cabinets

Cabinet doors are seen up close every day, in kitchen light that shows everything. A brush leaves brush marks and a roller leaves texture, and on a flat door panel both are easy to see. A sprayer lays the coating down as an even film across the whole piece, edges and all. The result looks like a factory finish, not a weekend project.

The coating matters as much as how it goes on. Gallery Series is made for cabinets, not walls or trim, and it’s built to stand up to the opening, closing and wiping cabinets get.

Paint, reface or replace?

You have three ways to get a new-looking kitchen:

  • Paint keeps your boxes and doors and changes the color. It’s usually the least expensive of the three, and it’s the right call when the cabinets are solid and the layout works.
  • Reface puts new doors and drawer fronts on your existing boxes, with a veneer over the frames. It makes sense if you want a different door style.
  • Replace means new cabinets. It’s the answer when the layout doesn’t work, the boxes are water damaged or falling apart, or you’re remodeling anyway.

Our guide on cabinet painting vs refacing vs replacing covers the full comparison.

Which paint level fits

Our three paint levels (SuperPaint, Duration Home and Emerald) are for walls, ceilings and trim. Cabinets don’t get a choice of level. Every cabinet job gets the same Gallery Series spec, because there’s one right way to do it.

If you’re repainting the kitchen walls at the same time, most people pick Performance (Duration Home) for a kitchen because it handles scrubbing. See interior painting for how the levels compare, and a free color consult comes with every estimate if you’re stuck between colors.

What affects the price

Cabinets are priced by the piece. We count the doors, drawer fronts, exposed end or island panels and glass-front doors. Stained cabinets, oak grain filling, the inside of the boxes and cabinet crown add to that. The estimate is free, and you get a written price before we start.

Our cabinet painting cost page walks through all of it, and you can read how we price every service. We paint cabinets across the Upstate, including Simpsonville, Greer and Boiling Springs. Financing is available through Wisetack or Klarna.

FAQ

Cabinet painting: common questions

Something else on your mind? Call or text 864-800-8275.

How is cabinet painting priced?

By the piece. We count every door, drawer front, exposed end or island panel and glass-front door, look at the finish your cabinets have now, and give you a written price before we start. The estimate is free. Our cabinet cost page explains what moves the price.

Do you use Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel on cabinets?

Not on cabinets. Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel is a good Sherwin-Williams enamel, and plenty of people brush it on trim, doors and even cabinets with good results. We spray every cabinet job with Sherwin-Williams Gallery Series Waterborne Topcoat instead, because it is made only for cabinets and meant to be sprayed, which gives an even, brush-mark-free finish on every door.

Can you paint stained or oak cabinets?

Yes. Stained cabinets need an adhesion primer, so they cost more than cabinets that are already painted. Oak has an open grain that shows through paint. If you want a smooth finish with no grain texture, we can grain fill each piece, which adds to the price.

Why don't you brush and roll cabinets?

Brushing and rolling leaves brush marks and roller texture, and on a cabinet door you see every one of them up close. Spraying puts down an even coat over the whole surface, so the doors look like they came finished that way.

Do you paint the inside of the cabinets?

The outside of the boxes, the face frames and any exposed ends get painted as part of the job. The inside of a cabinet box is optional and adds to the price. Most people leave the insides alone, but it's worth it on glass-front uppers where you can see in.

Should I paint, reface or replace my cabinets?

If the boxes are solid and you like the layout, painting is usually the way to go. Refacing makes sense if you want a different door style, and replacing makes sense if the layout doesn't work or the boxes are damaged. Our guide on painting vs refacing vs replacing goes through it.

How soon can I use my kitchen again?

The finish has to dry and harden before doors go back on, and it keeps getting harder for a few weeks after that. You can use the kitchen once everything is rehung. Just go easy on the doors and drawers for the first few weeks: no scrubbing, and don't hang damp towels over the doors.

Free estimate

Get a free estimate

Tell us a little about the job. We will set up a time to look at it, bring color samples, and give you a written price.

  1. 01Send this form, or call or text. Free, no obligation.
  2. 02We set a time to come look at the job.
  3. 03We measure and bring color samples for your walls.
  4. 04You get a written price before we start.
  5. 05We paint, walk it with you, and the 12-month workmanship warranty starts.

Pay over time through Wisetack, or with Klarna at checkout, for eligible customers. How financing works

Rather talk? Call or text 864-800-8275

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